Cuba Arrival and Departure Procedures in 2022

plane on runway

Part one of this article covered all the prep work I did for my trip to Cuba in late January 2022. This is what I experienced traveling to and from Jose Marti Airport in Havana.

woman with large suitcases at airport

Check-in Process

The hardest part of this journey was getting everything packed and ready to go. Check in was a breeze, although American Airlines doesn’t allow online check in for Cuba so I made sure I arrived two hours in advance.

A note about luggage. I’m not used to packing to full capacity so I was confused by the Cuba luggage restrictions. This trip I was taking advantage of Cuba customs fee waiver for medical, food, and hygiene products by bringing donations and requests. Basically, being a mule (coffee and vitamins were the most popular requests). I brought maximum luggage which is: 1 carry on, 1 personal item, 2 check in items which are allowed to be up to 70lbs each, although they charge insane excess bag fees for anything over 50lbs. Total cost of luggage $95.

At check-in in SMF I was asked to show my:

Vaccination Certificate — no longer required as of April 6, 2022
PCR Results — no longer required as of April 6, 2022
Passport
Cuba QR Code

In Miami

I had a very short layover but it doesn’t take much time. There is a Cuba Travel Services stand in the boarding area where they checked my visa and stamped my boarding pass “Cuba Ready”. If you need to buy a visa, that’s where you’ll do it, it takes less than 5 minutes. Boarding my flight to Havana they checked my passport and stamped boarding pass (this also serves as proof of medical insurance). Normally at some point during the check-in process I am asked to verbally state my category of general license, oddly, this time no one asked.
American Airlines used its big dog for this flight, the 9-seats across plane and it was full.

The Etecsa office

Arriving at Jose Marti Airport

The good thing about flying Jet Blue or American is that the flight arrives at the modern terminal – Terminal 3. This is convenient for picking up my Tourist SIM because the Etecsa office is right outside. In that same complex is the Ecotur office you’d visit in case you didn’t find your Cuban Adventures airport greeter. If I’d have flown Southwest, I’d arrive in Terminal 2, a taxi ride from Terminal 3.

I treated myself to the Airport VIP service so I didn’t have to deal with the baggage claim, I paid $25 in cash. There was a line of VIP escorts offering the service right when I walked off the jet bridge. My VIP escort Manuela* guided me to immigration where my QR code and passport were checked and my visa stamped. I was asked about the countries I recently visited, and then photographed sans all hat, glasses and anything else on my head. Sometimes I am also asked why I’m visiting; this is not the time to say Support for the Cuban People (that’s a US thing). I’d tell them tourism, sightseeing, going to the beach, etc.

Next stop, security x-ray (shoes stay on, no belts, scarves, or jackets). Manuela then led me to the VIP lounge where I was offered drinks (even beer and rum!) and snacks. Time to sit back and relax while Manuela looked for my luggage. It took about an hour, but I was comfortable. Everyone is supposed to get a half hour free wifi in the Jose Marti Airport (both terminals) but it wasn’t working at the time.

Once Manuela found my luggage, she loaded it on to a cart and guided me through customs where I showed my QR code again to exit the airport. Normally when I’m bringing a lot of stuff my luggage gets flagged for inspection, and I have to explain that everything is a gift. I think Manuela worked a bit of magic. I tipped her a $5.

Traffic shown out of the window of a taxi

Getting to Havana

Outside the airport there were plenty of cabs, both yellow taxis and classic cars, all of which should charge the same price. If you don’t have airport pickup, there are lots of people asking if you need a ride. Some are the drivers, and some are just spokespeople for the drivers and will lead you to the driver when you accept the offer. The first time I came this made me a bit nervous, but now I know it’s just how it works. I paid $25 for the 30-minute drive to Centro Habana, same price to all tourist neighborhoods.

In Havana

I arrived in the middle of the coldest period in Havana history where Cubans don’t leave the house unless absolutely necessary, which means the streets were even more deserted than usual. In all fairness, it was pretty darn cold. Who knew it could get down to 40-something degrees in Cuba? Havana was changed but still wonderful.

Airline agent reviews paperwork

Leaving Cuba

To get back to the US, residents must have either the Antigen test or a doctor’s note that confirms recovery from Covid within the past 90 days.

Because my video antigen test experiment had failed, I would have taken the rapid test at the Siboney Clinic kiosk in the airport (available at both terminals). The testing line wasn’t too long, the process seemed to go smoothly, and I have heard it costs $30 and by some miracle, they accept US credit cards. I’d give myself an extra hour to do the antigen test at the airport (so, arrive at least 3 hours before flight). If you’re on one of our tours, the guide will help arrange the test.

Instead, I handed over my doctors note, and a just-in-case printout of the CDC rules. The airline agent seemed taken by surprise and went over the paperwork very carefully (I had to explain that an E-Signature is a signature), but it worked!

Then it was just a matter of going back through immigration (they take your visa so make sure you don’t lose it), security (this time no shoes, my water always makes it through) and on to my flight back to Miami.

yellow box of cigars

Back in the U.S.

This was my 17th trip to Cuba, and I’d say about 6 times I’ve been asked more than the perfunctory “Why were you in Cuba?” question, to which the answer is always “Support for the Cuban People”. This lady wanted to know how I supported the Cuban people, where I stayed, what I did all day, and of course, whether I brought back alcohol or tobacco. I answered her questions easily: bringing donations and supporting private businesses, stayed in a casa particular, interacted with locals, no alcohol or tobacco. Satisfied, she waived me through.

The Trump Era prohibition on bringing back alcohol and tobacco is a real bummer because I had to turn down a gift from a friend who had very kindly bought cigars for me to take back for my father-in-law and husband. But, as with all processes run by humans, the enforcement of this rule is arbitrary, because I saw a woman with duty-free bag of rum who had clearly made it through immigration. The whole process to re-enter US will vary, but for most people, coming back from Cuba is not much different than coming back from Mexico or the UK.

Home sweet home and eager to go back to Cuba! If you have any questions drop them in the comments section!

Author: Sarah Arizaga

Sarah first fell in love with the rich culture and crumbling beauty of Cuba after receiving the National Geographic Cuba edition from her grandfather in 1999. She is thrilled to join the Cuban Adventures family to help travelers plan their visit to a country that is sure to captivate their hearts as it has hers. In particular, her goal is to help U.S. travelers understand the special considerations involved in travel to Cuba. An avid (some say obsessed) traveler, if she isn't planning her next vacation from her home in California, she is trying to create the perfect packing list.

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